Bistro Remy at The Langham, Sydney

Reviewed by Regina Su

The Langham, Sydney introduces its new upscale neighbourhood bistro; Bistro Remy. Nestled in The Rocks, The Langham is just a short walk from Barangaroo and Walsh Bay, providing a chance to slow the pace outside of the hustle and bustle of Sydney’s CBD. The relaxed bistro sits beside the luxury hotel’s Palm Court, best known for its Afternoon High Tea, and while Bistro Remy is a new addition to The Langham’s culinary scene, it offers the same calm, laid-back atmosphere.

Bistro Remy sits at ground level, and cocoons you from the pulse and movement of the city behind french shutters. The restaurant is gloriously light and open, and the marble and ivory palette adds a soothing, relaxed feminine touch to the bistro. But don’t be fooled by the ambience; the menu packs flavour and vibrancy, adding fresh twists to traditional bistro meals.

Chef Dave Whitting designed a menu that is a gastronomic delight, showcasing his background in french technique. While the dishes seem quite simple and familiar, Whitting has focused on the detail, showcasing Australian produce and championing the succulent flavours of each ingredient. What's more, the menu has been designed in collaboration with sommelier Matt Herod, to create a thoughtful wine list to accompany the meal.

We tasted an array of entrees, from Black Ash Tortellini to Heirloom Beetroot dishes; each with a unique twist, balancing flavours that may be surprising, but truly work together. The Pink Snapper Ceviche is a perfect example of this, served with jalapeno, buttermilk, radish and parsley oil, a combination that was light and zesty. In fact, although Whitting is french trained, the dishes served didn’t have the heaviness of cream or butter, rather they were fresh and playful reinventions of old favourites. The Souffle was particularly memorable, as it was twice-cooked and light in texture, oozing with gruyere cheese, yet had base notes of depth from added veal stock. I must also mention the show-stopping house smoked Mt Cook Alpine salmon, which for me was a real treat. This delicacy was so simple, melt-in-your-mouth, and served with a dill creme, fennel and lemon.

Of all the classic mains to be tempted by, it’s hard to choose one. I chose the Blue Eye Cod Fillet with artichoke, ginger and black garlic, which was particularly delicious. The cod fillet was unadulterated and succulent, teaming nicely with intense flavours like artichoke and garlic. Even the sides were a textural delight, with a crumbed crunch added to oven-baked broccoli, and buttery mushrooms. The meals are full-bodied and unique in their balance of flavours. While simple, there was a lot going on on the plate, which only enhanced to the culinary experience.

By this stage, dessert was just opulence. The Creme Brulee can’t be missed, as it celebrated the flavours of banana and maple with toffee, caramel and walnuts. The silken brulee was comforting with maple and caramel, and soothed by the banana. The Valrhona Chocolate was a little too decadent for me, experimenting with chocolate puff pastry and a rich, dark chocolate sorbet. In the fruit department, the Parfait with cassis and champagne had a sharp zing, a zesty end to a rich meal.

Bistro Remy at The Langham is a break from the ordinary, situated in the heart of an international city. The menu harnesses vibrant flavours with elegance, promising a little indulgence with every bite.